Modeling agencies operate as small independent business with no two agencies working the same. You hear that all the top models have great agencies, and you think, "If I can only sign with a modeling agency I will be set." But what exactly is a modeling agency and what does it do? This is not an easy question to answer. . A lot depends on the market in which an agency operates and the owner(s) and agency's personnel. The other problem with describing a modeling agency is that there are a lot of rip-off and scam agencies out there. Because most wannabe models know little about how the modeling business works, they are easy prey for these vultures. We can look at what an agency might be at its best and worst and what they can do for your career as a model.
A modeling agency's number one purpose is to find the model work. They work as the model's representative or agent. As an agent they seek and negotiate contracts of employment for the model or talent who is an independent business. For finding the model work, they take a percent of what the model makes (10% to 33%). In some states they are considered private employment agencies and must be licensed by the state. That sounds fairly simple and straightforward, but it can vary.
New York City is the number one and best city for models to pursue there dreams. It is the heart of the fashion and advertising industries in the United States, which leads to a high demand for all types of models. The modeling agencies in New York compete to fill that demand with the finest talent in the nation. When an agency sees someone who has potential or someone who satisfies the demand, they will invest in that individual to get him/her ready for the market. They don't do this to be nice people - they do it because they feel they can make money from that person. They know the market and they will invest in you to prepare you for that market. If they guess wrong and you do not become marketable and profitable, they will cut their losses and drop you. The top agencies are working with big-budget ad agencies and fashion designers so there is money available to develop new talent. These top agencies will help train you , get you test shoots, layout your portfolio, and put together comp cards and other printed materials you need. They take care of finding you work, booking the jobs, bill for the jobs and eventually cut a check for the work you do. Once you are in an agency like this all you have to worry about is following instructions and modeling.
What if you do find a good agency, what will they do for you? A good agency will help manage your career and find you work. In big cities this can be split into two parts, managers and bookers. The manager will help you develop your "look", your modeling skills, and develop your natural talents. They will help in preparing your marketing materials for the market in which they think you will be most successful. They should have knowledge of the market place and will honestly evaluate your potential for that market. They should have contacts so they can send you to photographers, graphic designers and printers to prepare your marketing materials. They should have the means to prepare you to be a model. The booking side is where the agency tracks down who uses models. The agency has a phone that is manned and an office that a client can visit. They make the rounds to keep in touch with those who use models and provide them with composites and head sheets of their talent. They advertise, do lunches, do cold calls and turn over stones to find who is hiring models. They book time for models to work, give direction to get there and make sure models show up. They handle billing, collections, and complaints. A good agency finds you work and earns every cent of their commission (usually 15% to 33%).
Within a secondary market, the modeling agencies are not working with big budget clients like New York. In some cities there may be enough work that an agency can be a full time operation - perhaps even supporting a few people on staff but there is not enough work to pay for the development of new talent. For this type of agency you must provide the marketing tools and training. The agency may help you with where to go to get photos, composites and training, but they can't afford to pay for it or loan you money. There just isn't enough budget for them to guess wrong even once. This is fine if the agency is really out there looking for work for its models and there is enough of a market to make a living. The problem I have found with some of these agencies is that they have no idea what they are doing. They are having a great time playing at being a modeling agency, but you could do better marketing yourself.
Further on down the ladder you find agencies in markets that are too small to support a full time modeling agency. In these markets the modeling school is usually the full time moneymaker and the agency is just a hook. If you finish the school you get to be in the agency. This can be fine if you like to play at modeling and have the money to do so. In most cases if your city has a population of less then a million it will not be able to support a full time agency. Even in a city of a million you may be better off marketing yourself than working with a so-so agency. When you get to a city with a population of a couple million or more there may be just too much ground to cover and an agency can be very helpful.
Since Modeling Agencies want to be easy-to-find, you should also be able to locate them in your local yellow pages. If you find one in your area, you will want to contact them to see what their new model screening process is. Some may have you send a couple of snap shots to them. Others might have an open call where they have all new wannabes show up at once to be evaluated. Others might schedule an interview time for you. All work differently, so call to find out first. Also, be sure to check out the agencies you find with the Better Business Bureau to see if they have any complaints against them. And don't be pressured into signing anything right away. If they offer a contract or want you to sign up for a class, ask if you can take the contract with you and you will get back to them in a few days. This same process of finding a modeling agency also applies if you are looking for one in a major market like New York. Check the link page for links to sites with directories of modeling agencies. Many of the top New York modeling agencies have web sites and some are listed on the link page. Some even allow you to email photos and your vital stats to them.
Since a modeling agency is often the key to becoming a successful model, this is where many scams take place. A certain mystery surrounds the modeling industry. How does one become a top model? There is no clear cut answer to that question. Because of this mystery and uncertainty, a great deal of room exists in which a scam artist can work. How do you find a legitimate modeling agency? There is no easy answer.
First, there is no rating service for modeling agencies; there is no governmental authority; there is no licensing organization to tell you which agency is legitimate and which is not. Most agencies are small, independent businesses working in a very competitive market place. These seem to be in constant flux with new ones starting, old ones merging, and some closing up shop. This makes it a real challenge to find just a legitimate agency, let alone a good agency.
The following are some ideas on how to find and then check out a modeling agency in your area:
There are three styles of contracts that you typically will run across. Some modeling agencies will work with exclusive contracts. This means that they are your exclusive representatives and they get a commission on any work you do. They get this commission whether they find the work or you find it on your own. If you sign this kind of contract, be sure the agency is really going to be working for you. If they are providing a lot of guidance getting your career started and are out there beating the bushes to find work for you, this type of contract is fine. If the agency signs you just to fill space in their roster and then leaves you hanging in limbo for the length of your contract (usually one to two years) it can be a bad way to try and start a career. Another type of contract is a non-exclusive modeling contract. In this case if the modeling agency finds you work, they get paid their commission. If you find work on your own you pay them nothing. You are free to sign non-exclusive contracts with other modeling agencies. This way you might have several agencies representing you at once. Now don't expect the same service and help from a non-exclusive agency as with an exclusive agency. In smaller markets, where you are expected to provide all of your training, portfolios, composites and other marketing materials before an agency will work with you, signing an exclusive contract is a kind of a rip-off.
The final contract is a Mother Agency Agreement. I have not seen one of these so I am not sure how they make it legally binding but you do hear about them. In this case the modeling agency knows there is not enough work locally to support any one over the long term. Their position then is to move you on to a major market and get you signed with a major modeling agency. They may get you work locally but it is more with the idea of getting you ready for the major market. For helping prepare you and helping to place you with a top modeling agency, they get a percent of your earnings for a long time to come. You, in essence, never leave the mother agency - you are just loaned out to the top agencies. This can be an attractive arrangement if the mother agency invests time and money in your career and gets you on with top money making agencies. The trouble comes when this gets attached to a modeling school. You not only have to pay for all of the classes, the photo shoots, the career guidance session, you then must keep paying these people again for doing nothing. You need to examine these agreements very carefully before you sign.